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To calculate your Gallons... all assume straight sides
Rectangle/Square, multiply 7.48 x CubicFeet of water
- 10 Feet Long x 5 Feet Wide x 4 Feet Deep = 200 CubicFeet
- Times 7.48 Gallons per CubicFoot = 1,496 Gallons in your pond
Round pond, multiply Diameter x Diameter x Depth x 5.9
- 10 Foot Diameter with 5 Foot Depth
- 10 X 10 X 5 X 5.9 = 2,950 Gallons
Oval pond, multiply Long x Wide x Depth x 6.7
- 10 Foot Long 5 Foot Wide with 4 Foot Depth
- 10 X 5 X 4 X 6.7 = 1,340 Gallons
Estimating Waterfall Widths and Flow Rates
To produce a "thin" film of water over a "smooth" lip
200 GPH for a 4 Inch Lip
300 GPH for a 6 Inch Lip
700 GPH for a 10 Inch Lip
1300 GPH for a 10 Inch Lip
3000 GPH for a 24 Inch Lip
To produce a "bold" film of water over a "smooth" lip
400 GPH for a 4 Inch Lip
600 GPH for a 6 Inch Lip
1200 GPH for a 10 Inch Lip
2100 GPH for a 10 Inch Lip
4000 GPH for a 24 Inch Lip
Link to Many Other Conversions
Another Link to Other Conversions
And yet Another Link to Conversions
A quick way to estimate fish load in your pond
Enter your number of each size fish in the spreadsheet
To download and save, RIGHT click the link and specify the save
A Spreadsheet to Calculate Pond Size -vs- Fish Load Density
Ammonia is a toxic byproduct of fish and other pond life, made worse by over feeding. Ammonia is constantly produced by fish waste, decomposing plants and uneaten fish food. Ammonia is the number one killer of pond fish.
Nitrite is a toxic byproduct of pond life, made worse by over feeding. Nitrite is produced by filter bacteria which "eat" the Ammonia and give off Nitrite. Low levels of Nitrite affect the ability of cells to use oxygen. High levels of Nitrite will quickly lead to fish mortality.
Nitrate is a nutrient source for algae and other plant life. Nitrate is produced by filter bacteria which "eat" the Nitrite and give off Nitrate. High levels of Nitrate are frequently linked to poor fish health, excessive algae growth and a build-up of organic pollutants.
PH is the measure of the acidity in pond water. A reading of 7.0 is neutral. A PH above 7.0 is alkaline. Any reading below 7.0 is acid. A PH range between 6.8 and 8.0 is ideal for fish ponds. The PH of water goes through a natural cycle, fluctuating from day to night as a result of photosynthesis. It is best to test PH in the morning before plants become active and PH rises. Always test at the same time each day, to keep accurate records.
Chlorine is a disinfectant added to municipal water supplies to destroy harmful bacteria. Chlorine is toxic to fish and a pond's beneficial bacteria.
Chloramine is a mixture of compounds which occurs when ammonia and chlorine are combined.
Carbonate Hardness (KH in your test kit) contributes to holding PH steady, so should be tested and maintained as needed.
Salt is required in low doses to maintain electrolites in fish. Salt levels are not affected by evaporation, but are affected by water changes.
A Quick Note about our Technical Advice
Technical advice over the telephone or Internet is difficult at best, and impossible in some cases. We are not able to see your pond site to judge height or distance, the size pond you plan to build, or the number and sizes of Koi you will have in your pond (and always remember... they GROW... so you need to download and use the spreadsheet in the link above and plan ahead for "full grown" fish load when ordering a biological filter)
Having said that, this page and the links below are a good place to start learning about what you need to know to be "Mother Nature" and build a healthy pond to house healthy fish... you are not "keeping fish" you are "keeping healthy water" in the place of "Mother Nature" so you need to read about the biological cycle that converts (poison!) fish waste into less harmful chemicals
As well as the links below, you might want to check the Koi USA web site to read their archive of articles or click on the AKCA link to find a club near you (over 100 clubs, last time I looked) then join a club and attend meetings to find out what other people have already done to solve the problems of keeping fish in an artificial pond
Once you know the gallons in your pond, and how many fish you will have (be sure to allow for growth when buying a biological filter!!!) you will be ready to go to the individual store pages for the products needed to create a complete biological system - while we are not able to tell you "exactly" which product to buy, since only you know your ultimate pond plans, we are certainly able to offer very good prices on the products we sell
Please note that we do not sell plumbing fittings. Your local Home Depot or other plumbing supply will stock all 1.5 or 2 inch PVC fittings you need. If you wish to use FlexPVC pipe, you may need to find a specialty supplier, such as a Hot Tub sales outlet, rather than a "general" plumbing supplier
Complete filtration involves THREE biological stages
Link to Norm Meck on Water Quality
Link to Doc J "KoiVet" for Fish Health and Water Quality
Link to More Water Quality Information (Free Registration)
NOTE - We do NOT stock either of the COLD SHIP bacteria products mentioned above, as those products require special facilities which we do not have (refridgerated storage and cold shipping containers)
Select a Pump to match your desired amount of water flow
Selecting a Pump for the size of your pond
Select a UV Light to match the size of your pond
Selecting a UV Light for the size of your pond
Select an ULTIMA II filter to match the size of your pond
Selecting an ULTIMA II filter for the size of your pond
If you selected all the right size components, your pond water should now be just as pure as Nature designed for the health of your fish (as there are too many variables of design and implementation for a mail order company to control, we are not able to guarantee results, we may only point the direction you should take when selecting components)
Evaporation
Ponds evaporate water, faster when it is hot and dry
Ponds evaporate water, faster when the wind is blowing
Ponds evaporate water, faster with movement (ie-waterfall)
What is a "reasonable" amount of evaporation for your pond?
I have no idea... I use a computer program to balance my checkbook, so the formula to calculate evaporation based on surface area, temperature, humidity, wind speed and water movement is WAY past my mathimatical abilities! I suggest you read at one or more of the following 4 links
Link to Evaporation Information
Link to More Evaporation Information
Link to even More Evaporation Information
Or this Link to Evaporation Information
Building a Concrete Pond - In the House we Sold
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