Side Canyons
| Nothing can prepare you for this.
Nothing I can say can let you share the experience of exploring those side
canyons. Nothing I can show you in pictures can let you know what
that experience is like. Nothing.
Each is different. Even the upstream canyons–say, Hansen, Forgotten, Annie, Halls–each would be a National Park anywhere else were it well known. They are superb. But the lower saw-cut canyons are each precious gems in the desert. Gigantic gems. You tie up your boat on the river bank and set out toward the opening in the wall, perhaps a slit in the massive sandstone many hundreds of feet high. Sometimes you walk on a dried mud flat with thousands of tiny toads scurrying about and chinmeying in and out of the deep cracks in the mud. Sometimes you wallow or “swim” in greasy-looking black mud. If so, there is almost always a clean, cool (cold, in winter, maybe covered with ice) pond in which to wash off the mud. Then you enter a natural cathedral, designed by an architect no human could match. Vaulted walls, overhanging walls, fluted walls, patterned walls, intricately carved walls. Winding corridors, branching corridors, echoing corridors, secret corridors, corridors illuminated by a shaft of sunlight making the walls glow with a fire-like hue, corridors illuminated by only the blue sky spreading a ubiquitous blue glow, dark corridors, corridors so cave-like you must carry a flashlight in the daytime. Gargantuan hallways, narrow, twisting, passageways, rock-roofed rock amphitheaters, small private carrels. Perhaps a floor flowing with a trickle of water, taking plunges here and there (and sometimes challenging your climbing skills). Perhaps a pond asking you to demonstrate your swimming skills. But most are easy walking, any challenging rubble having been swept out by the occasional flash flood (and that, too, is something you must adequately analyze as a thinking human explorer). The great stream alcoves are awesome in a sense that renders that description useless elsewhere. Perhaps a hundred of them total, virtually all near the mouths of the side canyons, near the Colorado River. One canyon wall leans over the opposite wall in response to the cutting momentum of water and rock washing downstream in a sharp curve, washing and grinding in a canyon of rock extraordinarily subject to erosion by water and debris flow, but sufficiently strong to remain as a leaning canyon wall after the deluges. This is Navajo sandstone. Slightly soluble in water, but the water is that of the desert of the Colorado Plateau: scarce. Unique rock in a unique place. The alcoves echo your footsteps, echo your voices–if you haven’t been struck dumb by the overwhelming experience. Many are. You often look in virtually the same direction, from the deepest part of the alcove. and you are looking both downstream and upstream. Overhead is not sky, but a sloping roof, patterned and carved. Most have sandy, flat floors. The deepest is in Driftwood Canyon, with an undercut about one quarter mile deep. Most visitors, however, find the most awesome, for whatever that might mean, to be the jump-up alcove, with its plunging waterfall, at the end of the walkable part of Clear Creek in the Escalante. This is Cathedral in the Desert. Many people have rounded that last turn not realizing what would be there and then simply stood in silence, stunned by the sight and sound. Stood long.
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GLEN
CANYONEERS: PLEASE CONSIDER
HOW TO LINK TO YOUR SITE HERE.
Throughout the rest of that summer, I burrowed through the many libraries at the University of California at Berkeley, searching for anything I could find about Glen Canyon. What I found was that we had seen very little of what was there. We had been overwhelmed by the steady flow of scenery, history, and experience. We had, nevertheless, missed almost all.
We returned that September. Then in December. Then the next January. Then in April. And the following June. And, finally, the June of 1964, when the reservoir had pushed almost all the way to Hite. And those were only the boating trips. We also made hiking trips, hiking in from the surrounding roads. Carrying so much information of what to seek, we found so much, and so much more we had not expected.
We cannot communicate
our feelings about that dam. Communication requires shared experience.
Too few experienced what we experienced. We can continue our saga
only through means other than words. That is our goal with this Web
site. And with the slide presentation we made in 1962. And
the movie the Sierra Club made from our slide show.