Cairn above Klondike Bar
Some river boater once sat
here looking across the Colorado River into a boundless fairyland of Mother
Nature's sandstone sculpture and built a whimsical monument. Did
he, or she, have any notion of what was about to happen to that surreal
wonderland?
Almost certainly not.
The destruction of this place was inconceivable to those who had experienced
its wonders. And today, the place—and its experience—is inconceivable
to those who never knew it, for this is a place of unique experience.
Truly unique.
One by one, those fortunate
few who had become intimate with this Eden, this meeting of life with a
paradise of sensuous stone, eventually came to face the terrible truth,
and one by one the shock drove a spike of sorrow into their hearts.
We first encountered Lake
Powell as we pulled into Aztec Creek landing where the waters from the
dam had just begun backing up toward Rainbow Bridge. Against the
left bank of Aztec Creek were several gigantic black pontoon rafts, and
sitting on one of those hot rubber monsters was an elderly, white haired
gentleman with a Hemmingway-like white beard. He seemed to be in
shock.
We recognized him from chance
meetings all over the West. It was "Whitey," the husband of Georgie
White, "The Woman of the Rivers." He was in shock.
It was the shock of meeting
up with a reality that was simply too horrible to face: Glen Canyon
was really going to be destroyed, leaving only that higher-elevation portion
we came to know as "not even run-of-the-mill Glen Canyon spectacular."
And nobody in the future
would ever know the real Glen, or even be able to begin to understand what
it was like, because Lake Powell would open up to easy access only that
higher-elevation Glen which anywhere else would be mind blowingly spectacular.
But in the Glen was not worth
our time.
The exquisite place that
was the Glen was visibly being drowned: As we sat on the hot rubber we
could see substantial progress of the drowning. The flood water visibly
crept up the creek bed.
Shortly, a woman came walking
slowly down Aztec Creek, looking as morose as we felt. It was Georgie.
She had taken a group of her tourists up toward Rainbow, but she didn't
have the heart to be with a flock of tourists just then. She pointed
them up Bridge Creek and told them she would be waiting at the boats when
they returned.
So, the four of us sat on
the hot pontoons and exchanged stories of what was drawing to a close before
our eyes. We all agreed: the truth was so tragic, so horrible, that
it had been, for the past year or two, something our minds would not let
us face.
We watched that horror for
hours. It sank in slowly and inexorably. And Glen sank into
the past, a victim of simplistic engineering and of ignorance of that place
almost noone knew.
See
a bit of what we felt.
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Georgie
White in Glen
Sylvia
Tone (Toni), a frequent traveller with Georgie in Glen and Grand.
She wrote about a trip to Lake Powell, after Glen was gone:
"Last
spring, I made the mistake of taking the boat trip on Lake Powell, to what
were once Aztec and Bridge Canyons and walked to Rainbow. We
were herded along by the guides like a bunch of sheep, not allowed to leave
the trail or go to the little cottonwood and spring under the bridge.
I was more than depressed and told my friends. Powell was a dead
world. Deadness is the only word that describes it. Not a flower
or a leaf or tree or little lizard, and being old and emotional and sick
at heart, I cried."
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